蕃薯落土生根

作者林天德

退休之後要住在那裡？這對我來說，確實是個課題。在留美鄉親中，我發覺有些家因工作、地緣、財務關係，決定就地生根；有些家因子女需要或想依子女防老，決定搬去跟子女同住；有些家因思台情深或在台有個工作，決定回台定居。這些決定對當家人來說，理應都是好決定，誰也不必羨慕誰。彼此各自尊重，各自寫家史，我也懶得去追問。不過，我樂意跟你分享我的決定過程。這經驗不透明，就有損於我的人生哲學和我對愛是分享的詮釋。

我來自台灣，娶個日本太太，在美國成家就業，因此，台灣、日本、和美國都有可能是我退休後的落腳地。先說日本，我幾次到日本旅遊與探親，發覺生活費過度昂貴，終於取消居住日本的念頭。這決定可跟我不會講日語沒有關係，因我相信我日語底子好，只要我在日本住段時間，日語一定瑯瑯上腔。也不是我阻擋我太太回日本住，相反地，她都比我搶先開口不住日本。既使有次住在沖澠某小島上的師大班上陳進福同學，寄張剪報給我看。看到他被戲稱為「國王」，一度引起我們到那裡退休的興趣。但因偏遠不順路，又沒得拜訪過陳國王，在沖澠退休的念頭始終未得明芽。

次說台灣，她是我成長的故鄉，再加以心上也有個落葉歸根的念頭，我曾不只一次想回台灣定居。一九八九年，我毅然放棄在南卡州的高薪，回台執教時就從美國帶回些錢，也把在台灣賺的錢，都存放在台灣，以便機會成熟就行動。雖然台灣氣候過份溼熱，到處人擠人，但我相信我能夠舒適地生活下去。更何況我喜歡台灣吃和台灣情，也樂於回饋故鄉。我預測我太太在生活上可有點困難，但以她的能力，我相信她也能克服，連她的日本同學也推薦我們在台灣退休。可是我子女都反對我們回台灣或日本定居，因為日後彼此相見不易。特別是回台灣定居，她們都認為媽會受不了。因此，是否回台定居全落在我的肩膀上。看到我屏東老家早被扯除，在都市也沒有專職，因此，我若回台定居勢必另起爐灶，就很可能選住屏東或東部或海邊或山坡，因我們夫婦比較喜歡自然與也喜歡種植花草。然看到台灣每年夏天的天然災害，叫我有點膽怯；看到眼前的高密度繁華，叫我感受不到舊有的生活情趣；再看到認識的鄉親大都已凋零，叫我落葉歸根的意味流失大半。再轉頭一看，我也沒有個可供發揮的專職，回饋台灣母親也將是夢，因此我打消回台定居。

我這蕃薯要在美國落土爛生根。我居遊過美國大部地區，對加州特別有好感。她的居民較不保守也較不排外，況且越戰後，當地亞裔居民大增，南北加州都有個小台北，東方超級市場形同雨後春荀。我在洛杉磯加大唸書時，早就對加州的氣後、庭園、海岸線、山景、和人文有所偏愛。況且加州是在美國西海岸，來回台灣和日本，比起東海岸來說，將縮短五小時的飛程。就以我以前住在南卡州來看，往返因過站轉機還得多花二小時，就可直接感受到住加州是一大恩惠。因此，我和太太兩人一口同聲說要回加州退休。

然加州又那麼長，南北相距大約十二小時車程，要住加州那個地方？我對北加州比較陌生，一九六四年來美的第一站就是到舊金山，對她一見鍾情。在加大唸書的四年中，我曾往北遊過Santa Barbara市、Sequoia 國家公園、和 Monterey海洋博物館，她們都在我心中留下甜蜜的回憶。我有兩位子女唸柏克萊加大，一位已在舊金山成家立業。還有一位陳姓鄉親，不時說他多麼喜歡住在灣區，就因這些因素，我捨棄南加州，二○○一年決定搬到舊金山灣區居住。

如今我在灣區已經住了五年，在專業上還無法充份發揮長才。然退一步想，既已退休，魚與熊掌不可得兼，何不就地追求退休後的幸福生活？我開始寫書，並規劃性的出國旅遊，更重要的，想盡辦法活在當下，充份利用舊金山灣區本地的資源。在這五年中，我出國遊過泰國、日本、台灣、蘇俄、北歐、中西歐、和南美，也出加州遊過美國西半部七個國家公園。在加州，我舊地重遊Los Angeles, San Diego等大城，Kings Canyon, Yosemite 等國家公園，以及母校UCLA。

如今我在灣區的退休生活情趣，可說漸入佳境。讓我約略介紹一下灣區的地理情況：北加州Sacramento 和San Joaquin兩河所形成的舊金山海灣有五條跨灣大橋，最著名的是金門大橋。環繞灣區的大城在北灣有San Rafael, Novato, Vallejo，東灣有Richmond, Oakland, Hayward, Fremont，南灣有San Jose, Sunnyvale、半島/西灣有San Francisco, San Bruno, Redwood City, Palo Alto等，總人口大約六百萬人。除了高速公路和捷運外，San Francisco, Oakland, 和 San Jose各有國際機場。灣區背後的腹地是加州農業大地所在，再其後是貫穿美國西部南北走向的洛磯山脈（Sierra Mountains），著名的Yosemite, Kings Canyon和 Sequoia國家公園就座落在其中，離舊金山約四或五小時的車程。

就基於這豐富的天然資源，使得這裡的生活情趣顯得多元又多彩。先談玩水，外地來的遊客都要到舊金山市第39號漁人碼頭看灣景、嚐海鮮、或乘遊艇。退休後的我感到年紀已大，自己也沒船，就只好在岸邊垂釣或搭遊輪了。我一生喜歡垂釣，在加州這裡一年的釣魚執照費是三十元。每當我把釣上的Sturgeon 和Striped Bass，因魚身短於八英吋，就得立即放回河；但在十月初釣鮭魚的情況可不一樣，不僅有收獲，竟然打破Pittsburg Marina岸釣記錄。我釣上一條長40英吋重35英磅，不忍心吃，就當天出資六百美元做成標本，配以鄭文錫鄉親手寫「年季有餘」，把牠懸掛在客廳上。我乘遊艇到過惡魔島（Alcatraz）參觀監獄廢墟，但還沒去關過中國人的天使島（Angeles Island）。

要看舊金山灣景不一定要花錢乘遊艇，也可免費搭渡輪，不過這要看運氣。每逢上百度的大熱天，為鼓勵居民不要開車排廢氣，政府偶會宣佈環保日（spare the air and fair day），當天免費提供公共交通工具 (如捷運、市公車、渡輪)。就以二○○六年的大熱浪來襲為例，總共宣佈了六天環保日。只要情況許可，我會充份利用環保日。我和太太兩人自帶挾心麵包和水，常就這樣免費暢遊清涼的舊金山市與海灣，一舉數得，我坦誠說這是白吃的午餐，我做夢也夢不到。

次談玩山，外地來的遊客喜歡觀賞國家公園巨巖或大樹。在Yosemite 國家公園還可看到三條瀑布，其中一條可是三級跳式的往下沖。可惜那些來去匆匆的遊客，往往領受不到攀跋岩石與慢步森林浴的野味，更不用說要與熊共舞了。說來也不必去國家公園，在住家附近的山丘或公園，就有走不完的步道。給我印象最深刻的要算是北灣的John Muir Park和舊金山市的 Golden Gate State Park ，前者提供罕見的海岸紅木森林浴，也曾是攸關台灣主權的舊金山和約簽署代表的聚遊處，然因距我家有一個多小時的車程，我倒不是常客；後者提供各國花園、藝術館、和日本庭園，我多次到那裡慢步，從不厭倦。

退休在舊金山灣區，除了充裕遊山玩水之外，最吸引人的要算迷人的氣候。這裡空氣新鮮乾燥，溫度常在六十到九十度之間迴旋。在夏天既使跨越九十五度以上，也不過幾天而已。不僅不冒汗，入晚反有海風可乘涼，就如同我屏東林邊老鄉；通常在冬天，再冷也不下華氏三十五度，更慶幸沒有冰霜，植物或花蕊不被冷死。因此在我家後院，我長年不休地種有各種疏菜（苦瓜、南瓜、絲瓜、胡瓜、白菜、空心菜、蕃茄、茄子、韭菜等）與水果（柿、櫻桃、黃桃、水梨、無花果、橘等）。回想起我在南卡的歲月裡，每到十月中旬，所有疏菜都被凍死；每到三月上旬，所有花蕊常因受霜害而結不起果。在灣區這裡，我不僅享受自種的水果與蔬菜，就是自己種不來的也可到附近農場去採買。每當台灣親友來得對時，我定會帶他們到農場去採那又甜又汁的白桃和櫻桃，再把它們存放在冰箱。在餐後吃，算也是一大享受。沒錯，我想吃故鄉林邊的黑珍珠，但眼前當地水果，叫我樂不思蜀。

如今退休在灣區五年，我沒怨言。套句美國俗語，我樂意說so far so good。或許有一天我會搬去San Diego，因住那兒的女兒，經常要我去跟她一起住。我深深體會，要享受退休生活，就得充份利用當地資源。

Grounded Potato Will Take Roots

Tender Lin, Ph.D.

Where am I going to live after retirement? It was really an issue to me. I found my generations of Taiwanese Americans roughly taking three different routes: (1) decide to stay put by considering present residence and financial restraint; (2) decide to move and stay next to grown up kids; (3) decide to move back to Taiwan either because of attachment or further employment opportunity at Taiwan. All these decisions are good decisions to the subjects; there is nothing to be jealous about. Each one of us respects each other and writes our own family history, and I do even bother to ask. However I do like to share my decision process, otherwise it would violate my philosophy of live and my definition of love.

I was from Taiwan and married to a Japanese wife. We lived and raised our family in United States. Taiwan, Japan, and United States are all possible candidates for our retirement site. First, let’s talk about Japan. I traveled to Japan on several occasions, and I felt it is too expensive to live there. Both I and my wife decided not to retire at Japan in our early stage of planning. This decision had nothing to do with my inability to speak Japanese, because I am sure I can master Japanese once I live there. It had nothing to do with my interference with my wife. In fact, she was the first one to say that. On one occasion, my college classmate, Mr. J. F. Chen, lived and proclaimed by locals as king in a small island next to Okinawa. We had some interests to explore but did not materialize for various reasons. We gave up retiring over there at the end.

Next, let’s talk about Taiwan. It is the place I grew up. I am like other homelanders often thinking about to retire at home country. In 1989, I gave up my high paying job at SCDMH and went back to Taiwan to teach. At that time, I brought back some money and also save up my earning there in Taiwan. I did that just because I did have intention to retire in Taiwan if situation called for. Although Taiwan is hot and crowed but I think I can take it. I love foods and people there, and love to pay tribute to my hometown. Although my wife might have some adjustment problems but I am sure she can overcome without much difficulty. Her Japanese classmates even recommended us to retire in Taiwan too. The only opposition is from my kids. They all think Mom couldn’t take it in Taiwan.

Therefore, whether to retire in Taiwan rests on me. I started to take a serious look. My childhood house was torn down and I had no job at hand in Taiwan. I got to start all over again if I moved back. We are nature lovers and we might have to live at country side in Pingtung or East Coast or some mountain slopes. I had reservation due to yearly typhoon and earthquake in Taiwan. I did not feel as much fun as the old days from the current hustle and bustle life in Taiwan either. Also, most people I knew have passed away, and it’s hard for me to make a head way without a professional position. From all of these considerations, I sensed it might be just a dream to pay tribute to my home country. Finally, I decided not to retire at Taiwan.

I wanted to settle in United States. I have been all over the United States, I especially liked California. Californians are less conservative and a lot them are Asians ever since the conclusion of Vietnam War. There are lot of Asian communities such as Little Taipei and a lot of Asian markets. Ever since I was a student at UCLA, I loved its climate, gardens, ocean coast, mountains, and cities. Another advantage is that California is closer to Asia. It is shorter by 5 hours of flying time as compared to the East Coast, by extra two more hours of transferring time as compared to Columbia, South Carolina, the place we lived. Therefore, both I and my wife all wanted to move back to California.

California is such a big state. It takes about 12 hours to drive from the southern part to the northern part. Where shall we live? I am comparatively unfamiliar with the northern part, but I did have a very good impression of San Francisco, my first stop in coming to United Stats in 1964. Also, when I was students at UCLA, I visited Santa Barbara, Sequoia National Park and Monterey Park and I still got a sweet memory of them all. Besides, my son, Daniel and my daughter, Chris, both were students at UC Berkeley. My son even has his family living in Redwood Shores, and Mr. Chen also highly recommended Bay Area. Therefore, I chose and moved to San Francisco Bay Area for retirement in 2001.

Until now, I have lived in Bay Area for five years. I have not done any significant things professionally. As I could not catch two birds in one shot, I might as well enjoy my retirement life. I started to write this book and traveled aboard regularly. More importantly, I tried to fully use the local resources. In sum, I have been Thailand, Japan, Taiwan, Russia, Northern Europe, Central Europe, and South America. I also toured seven National Parks at the West Coast. I revisited Los Angeles, San Diego, King Canyon, Yosemite, and UCLA.

My retirement life at Bay Area is getting livelier as time goes on. Let me briefly introduce you the geological features of Bay Area. San Francisco Bay is formed by two rivers, Sacramento and San Joaquin. There are five cross-bay bridges and the most famous one is Golden Gate Bridge. Cities surrounding the Bay are San Rafael, Novato and Vallejo on the north, Richmond, Oakland, Hayward, and Fremont on the east, San Jose and Sunnyvale on the south, and San Francisco, San Bruno, Redwood City and Palo Alto on the west. The total population is about six millions. For transportation, in addition to highways and Bart, there are two sea ports and three international airports. Its neighboring inlands are famous farmland and Sierra Mountains where Yosemite, King Canyon, and Sequoia National Parks are located. It takes about 4 to 5 fours of driving to reach there.

Because of rich natural resources, my retirement lives are rich and colorful too. First, let’s talk about fun from water. Tourists usually came to Pier 39 for sightseeing and tasting of sea foods and having all sorts of boating and sailing. For me, I either go for fishing or riding ferries. With a $30 of license fee, I could go for sturgeon, striped bas, and salmon fishing. I even caught one salmon at Pittsburg Marina. It broke the record (weight, 35lbs; 40 in, length). I paid $600 to have a specimen made and hanged it in my living room. Till today, I have been Alcatraz but not Angele Island.

To enjoy the beautiful scenery at San Francisco Bay, one has to purchase tour boat tickets. If you are lucky, you might be able to ride ferry boat for free. In summer 2006, the temperature reached over 100 degrees. Government declared the day as spare the air and fair day. It encouraged citizens to reduce air pollutions by riding public transportations such as Ferries, Muni, Cal train, and Bart which are offered free of charge. In that year, there were a total of six such days. On two of those days, I and my wife fully used that opportunities. We carried our own lunch box and water, rode Bart to San Francisco and then rode ferries touring the Bay. We were thoroughly enjoyed. It is really a so-called “free lunch”. If I want to dream, I could not even dream of it. Since then, no more offerings as government is short of budget.

Next, let’s talk about fun from mountains. Tourists like to visit National Parks to see gigantic rocks and age-old trees. There are three water falls at Yosemite National Park and one is a cascade of falls which make it very interesting and thrilling. If you do not camp there, then you won’t to taste the wildness of rocks and forests, not even to dance with the bears. There are two parks nearby. One is John Muir Park which is dense with redwood forests and was the gathering place of San Francisco Peace Treaty delegates. The other one is Golden Gate State Park which has Japanese garden and museum and many others. I enjoyed both, but I frequented the latter more often as it is right inside the city.

At San Francisco Bay, in addition to enjoy its water and mountain, I also enjoy its weather. The air is dry and the temperature runs in between 50 and 90. It rarely runs over 95 degrees. In inland, it might run up to 105 degrees for about four days a year. I rarely sweat because of heat and I like the breeze at night just like my hometown breeze at Linpien. In winter, it rarely drops below 35 degrees, and the luckiest of all is no freezing most of the time. On wonder I can grow and harvest all kinds of vegetables and fruits. It is really quite different from South Carolina. Not only I get to eat my own growing vegetables and fruits, but also there are abundant of them at the market too. When my family came to see me from Taiwan, I would take them to pick cherries or white peaches at the farm. They taste so good after refrigeration. Yes, I like Linpien’s lienwu, but I like fruits here too.

I do not complain my past five years at Bay Area. Really, it’s so far so good. Perhaps one day I might move to San Diego, as my daughter, Meilee, lives there. She always wants us to stay with her. To enjoy one’s retirement life, one needs to fully use his resources, I come to learn.

二○○一年決定搬到舊金山灣區居住